Intriguing minutes with Alvin Fernandez of Ae’lkemi

Alvin Fernandez, the creative force behind the dazzling Ae’lkemi label is still over the moon after being officially inducted into the prestigious Asian Couture Federation at last week’s inaugural ACF Awards held at Marina Bay Sands. As part of the Gala, Ae’lkemi showcased alongside some of the most unparalleled couture designers from ten countries around the world.

ACF vice-president Emily Hwang, ACF founding president Dr Frank Cintamani, Alvin Fernandez and ACF honorary president Kenzo Takada. Photo courtesy of the West Australian.

Established in 1998, the Ae’lkemi frock can be visualized as feminine with a modern twist, featuring intricate beading and feathers, unique prints and distinctive hand-finishings. The label has evolved through the years- earlier collections consisted of casual yet smart tailored garments including this strapless printed top- my first Ae’lkemi purchase at just 16. Back in the late 90’s and early 2000s, strapless tops or ‘boob tubes’ were all the rage especially when paired with jeans.

I caught up with the talented Alvin for a thought provoking one-on-one. Despite being one of the most in-demand designers in Australia with a celebrity clientele including Delta Goodrem, Mel B and Dannii Minogue, Alvin remains very down-to-earth and is always a pleasure to talk to.

S: Tell us about your new membership with the ACF.
A: I was officially inducted last week in Singapore. It was quite an honour and privilege to be in the same room and in the same league as all these other talented couture designers based in Asia. The highlight of my trip would be accepting my award from Kenzo Tadaka (founder of Kenzo Paris). Shaking his hand was a real highlight for me.

S: As a designer, what does it mean to be inducted into the ACF?
A: I think it opens many door for us because we have always been interested in expanding throughout the Asian and Middle Eastern markets. It’s a stepping stone to have these opportunities in front of us. ACF provides a support network to introduce us to the right people and hopefully we will be showcasing with them overseas next year.

S: I believe that you’re the only designer in Australia to be a member of the ACF?
A: Yes the first in Australia. Indeed it is quite an honour. It’s quite very surreal; it really hasn’t sunk in yet.

S: So what is on trend this spring/summer?
A: I’ve never been one to stick to trends; we just do what we feel like doing. What is now great about our concept store is that we are able to put in capsule collections of what we feel works with our clients. An amazing trend may not necessarily translate well with our clientele. For example, the length of my cocktail dresses is getting longer, past the knee. We use to cut our dresses ‘mini’ but a lot of our clients want the dress cut longer but still tapered in and nipped in at the waist and hips to achieve our pencil signature look.

S: Your label has collected a string of awards including ‘The Most Innovative Designer’ award at the 17th annual WA Fashion Awards and has graced the catwalk in Milan, New York and Berlin. Do you have any plans to expand your business interstate or overseas? I’ve noticed that you have only one flagship store, and unlike fellow WA designers, Ellery and Aurelio Costarella, your collections are not stocked in department stores.
A: I think one store is enough at the moment (laughs). We do a lot of clientele based work. Clients from Melbourne and Sydney hand over their calendar and we look after all their big events for the year. We haven’t positioned ourselves in the big department stores because our clients don’t like to buy the same dress that 50 other people are wearing and we often cap our stock off at a certain amount so it is more exclusive. This works well for us. We also do a resort (ready to wear) range in our concept store but couture is our main business which is great because it means I get to do new things all the time. Everything is handmade in our studio.

S: What has been your most well received piece? I must say, the Paris gown worn by Paris Fontana at Telstra Perth Fashion Festival in 2011 was a showstopper.
A: The Paris gown was indeed very well received. The Louise gown which showcased at Mercedes Benz Fashion Festival Sydney was also quite a showstopper. This piece made it to the New York Times within 10 minutes of gracing the catwalk. In terms of a couture piece, definitely the black feather gown that was showcased at this year’s Telstra Perth Fashion Festival.

L. The Paris gown on the runway. R. Delta Goodrem wearing the Paris gown

I was lucky enough to have the 1st Paris gown amongst a long wait-list. Where else better to wear it other than a rooftop overlooking beautiful Ho Chi Minh City?

The Paris gown in store at Ae’lkemi

S: The late American artist Andy Warhol once said: “Fashion wasn’t what you wore someplace anymore; it was the whole reason for going.” Do you agree?
A: Sometimes when it comes to fashion, people take things too seriously with what they wear rather than the experience or the occasion itself. People focus more on what they put on and forget the real purpose of the event. Brides often get caught up in the dress itself and I often think to myself well you are getting married aren’t you! I mean, it’s great for us, we get to help brides achieve a dream. I take my business seriously but in terms of fashion and what we do, you got to have fun with it. It’s not brain surgery – it must be joyful. People often ask me what’s my inspiration for this dress; sometimes there is no inspiration for a dress, sometimes a dress is a dress, sometimes you do it because you want to, sometimes I think that’s what comes to me and that’s what I want to do. I definitely enjoy what I do; otherwise I won’t be doing it. At the end of the day it’s a great industry to be in, but sometimes I think it can be taken out of context; it’s disposable at the end of the day.

S: The WA fashion industry is often perceived as very competitive. Everyone wants to be better than everyone else. How do you handle this?
A: I like competition; it keeps me on my toes. I need it to keep me motivated. Competition is healthy; it motivates me to do better. You don’t bring them down just because they’re doing well. It drives me if another designer is doing very well and I think to myself that is so cool- it drives me to better my designs.